The Anatomy of a Cap | Outdoor Cap Company

Whether you are new to distribution, the hat industry, or need a refresher - you've come to the right place. The following is our updated description of all the parts that make up one of the world's most popular accessories - the baseball cap.

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It seems simple, but if you break it down, your favorite cap has a lot going on. Let's check out the main components of a cap? 

Crown

This refers to the top of the cap.  The crown of the cap is made up of panels. Typically there are 6, but you can have 4 or 5 as well, with the exception of the camper or euro-style cap.  There are a few jewels in this crown that make it all come together - things such as buckram, buttons, sweatbands, and eyelets.

Buckram

We mentioned buckram above, but what on earth is buckram? It is the stiff woven fabric that is put into the front two panels of the crown to make a structured cap. This buckram gives you just the right height you want to stand out in a crowd. 

For patched hats, the buckram is made of much softer material if the goal of the look and fit is still considered unstructured. This prevents the patch from caving in on itself. 

No buckram and a heavy wash make for a soft, comfortable fit. According to multiple headwear companies, the unstructured, low-profile cap is the best-selling cap in their product lines. 

Sweatband

This is the band of fabric lining the inside bottom of the crown that touches the head. The sweatband serves multiple purposes. Depending on the fabric, the sweatband can make a cap very comfortable and can also help wick moisture away. There are even cooling sweatbands that actually reduce the temperature of the fabric by 5 degrees or more.

Button

The button is the jewel on top of the crown and helps hold all the panels together. It is either metal or plastic and is covered with the fabric used on the cap.

Eyelets

Most caps have six embroidered holes, one in each panel, to allow for ventilation. But if the cap has mesh back panels, we typically leave the eyelets off since the mesh takes on the ventilation role. The eyelets can be sewn or metal.

Visor

A lot of people call this the bill or brim, but visor is the technical term. It is a piece of plastic attached to the front of the crown and is covered with the fabric of choice. 

Visor Shape

The visor can be flat, pre-curved, or slightly pre-curved. 

If you want to learn more, please visit our website no bill baseball cap.

Construction Stitch

The stitching on the visor can be tonal for a sleek contrast look. Bolder options are contrast and 2-ply. Contrast, meaning the thread is a different color than the top of the visor, and 2-ply being twice as much thread is used, so the lines come out thicker and more prominent. 

Visor Finishing Options

The Sandwich 

The sandwich is an extra layer between the top and bottom of the visor that is a different color or can have a woven label with a logo on it. The sandwich adds a little flavor and is another spot where you can personalize your cap.

Flip

Flip visors have the material from the underside of the visor continue up over the front of the visor. 

Frayed

Frayed visors are a distressed look requested from multiple industries. We use multiple methods to destress the visor, and maintain a high level of quality control to ensure they are as similar as possible to each other. This is also a common practice for some end-users who like to make their hat unique. 

Binding

Binding on a visor is a piece of material sewn onto the end, overflowing slightly and evenly on the top and bottom of the visor. 

Ripped and frayed

Ripped and frayed visors are a more intense version of simple frayed visors. They don't allow for any extra decoration on the visor, but are a unique look and a fashion statement.  

Side inserts

Side inserts on a visor are a mix of binding and stitching on the sides and corners of the visor. They are sporty and can add a bold but refined look to your hat. 

Rope

Trending again as of is a rope added on the back of the visor, butted up to the bottom of the front panel of the hat. Commonly used now in men's styles, especially flatbills and truckers, this style originated from the golf cap community and was simply another embellishment added to the cap. 

Closure

This is one of the features that help sell the cap. There are fitted, stretch-fit, and adjustable closures. Fitted caps have a closed back and are sized by inches. You have to know the size of your head to know which cap would fit you the best. The stretch fit has a closed back as well, but the magical term is stretch - the fabric and sweatband stretch so these caps can fit a range of sizes. They typically come as S/M, M/L, or L/XL. The last closure is the most common - adjustable. It is the most common because of the ease of making the cap fit a larger variety of head sizes just by simply adjusting the closure. Adjustable closures can be hook/loop tape, plastic snap, or tuck strap with a slide or buckle. The tuck strap is typically made of the same fabric as the rest of the cap.

So as we mentioned, these are just the main components of a cap. There are many more details that can be added to make the cap unique for any culture or country that doesn't even play baseball or eat sandwiches but love a good cap!  We will touch on the many other cap types, designs, and components in upcoming articles. So go put on a hat and head to lunch - We know talking about sandwiches made us hungry!

For more bucket hat with stringinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.

After trying many different hats/caps etc I have had problems with all of them which has meant missed opportunities for interesting images.
I do wear glasses which adds another level to the hat/shade problem.

The 2 biggest problems that I find are:-
1. The brim of the hat is not usually long enough to shade my eyes and I have to use my hand as added extra length to the brim in low to the horizon sun situations.
This causes me to have to either hold my camera/lens with one hand or deposit the camera/lens onto the ground whilst looking into the low sun angle, neither option ideal.

2. During shooting there are times when I use portrait orientation and rotating the camera means that my hand and camera movement is blocked by the hat/shade brim as most brims extend from just above the eyes forwards.
This adds an extra few seconds to move the whole hat/shade out of the way.

I have done quite a bit of searching for solutions but have yet to find anything suitable.
I am going to try to make a cap with a larger-longer brim and mount the brim higher on my head somehow.

Any sensible - wearable - light weight suggestions for a photography hat/shade?

What do you wear out and about? Tilley. I use the LTM6 Airflow and there are different options with larger and smaller brims as well as additional styles. The brim seems flexible enough to rotate for portrait and is easy to tilt the hat if needed. They are fitted by head/hat size and not adjustable. Great in wind and on boats; they have a double strap. One strap that goes behind your head and another under the chin that keeps the hat secure even in very high wind.

Hats

Mindfully designed hats, apparel and accessories for Life Out There. Collaboratively designed in Canada. TILLEY LTM6 AIRFLO HAT

I have worn this hat for about 10 years. Check other models too made by Tilley for features or colors you may need.
Make sure it has a good string to keep it from blowing away.

Check out other hats sold by this reseller too.

Tilley LTM6 Airflo Hat - Holland Hats

Tilley LTM6 Airflo Hat provides sun protection in a light weight construction with crown mesh for coolness and comfort on hot days or strenuous activities.
Check out David Morgan hats too:

Home - David Morgan

A family owned and operated business selling quality hats, clothing, jewelry and accessories since . I use Barmah Hats Australia.

Barmah Hats Australia

Australian Leather Hats. Australian Owned and Operated since . Barmah Hats are ideal for all outdoor activities, work and play.
I use the "Squashy" Kangaroo Cooler, which has mesh around the hat to keep you cooler and let your head breathe. It can be squashed flat for storage or putting in your bag.

Or the Canvas Cooler, which again has the mesh around the hat to keep you cooler and let your head breathe. It can also be squashed flat for storage and has a chin strap for windy conditions.

At the moment, I am using the Squashy Kangaroo Cooler but am also going to get the Canvas Cooler with chin strap for those windy days. I also us a baseball cap. If the peak gets in the way I push it up with the camera. I know when it is likely to need pushing up. If I was going to use portrait orientation for any length of time I flip it round, but don't find I need to do that in most situations. Currently I'm using a Dorfman Pacific Twill Outback Hat which I've been using for about ten years. My first one is at the bottom of a lake since they have no strap. After all these years of almost daily wear it's quite beaten and battered, so it's not a hat I'd wear when going out to dinner even though it's been washed a couple of times each year. When (if) it ever wears out it will be replaced with a Tilley Either the Tilley, or Outdoor Research. The brims on both of them are very flexible, they don't blow off in the wind, or if you bump it when placing the camera up to your eye. I use to use a baseball hat, but after spending time in AZ seeing people with "no ears" I decided maybe that wasn't such a good plan...

Sunbriolet Sun Hat | Outdoor Research

Keep your head and face protected when you€™re on the water or out on a summer hike. UPF 50+ fabric shields you from intense sun, while strategically placed vents and wicking fabric in the crown.

After trying many different hats/caps etc I have had problems with all of them which has meant missed opportunities for interesting images.
I do wear glasses which adds another level to the hat/shade problem.

The 2 biggest problems that I find are:-
1. The brim of the hat is not usually long enough to shade my eyes and I have to use my hand as added extra length to the brim in low to the horizon sun situations.
This causes me to have to either hold my camera/lens with one hand or deposit the camera/lens onto the ground whilst looking into the low sun angle, neither option ideal.

2. During shooting there are times when I use portrait orientation and rotating the camera means that my hand and camera movement is blocked by the hat/shade brim as most brims extend from just above the eyes forwards.
This adds an extra few seconds to move the whole hat/shade out of the way.

I have done quite a bit of searching for solutions but have yet to find anything suitable.
I am going to try to make a cap with a larger-longer brim and mount the brim higher on my head somehow.

Any sensible - wearable - light weight suggestions for a photography hat/shade?

What do you wear out and about?

You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in. I started wearing a full brim hat after having a skin cancer removed from my forehead. All the men in the reception area had bandages over the tops of their ears. Baseball caps are OK for sports but provide no protection for the face or ears.

I use a narrower brim hat when using a camera. The Tilly include a double strap to keep the hat with you and not have it blow off in the wind when in a boat where retrieval may not be an option. I had similar concerns as Calson. I already had a Tilley & I love it but the brim was too wide while carrying tripod on shoulder. I purchased a Shelta Hat - Osprey version , real nice fitting hat, good brim but it's a bit narrower on sides with great coverage over the ears.

The Seahawk Performance Sun Protection Hat

This technical performance sun protection hat is our mid-width brim style for those who would like a bit more UV protection or don't need the arm clearance. A favorite sun hat for Stand up paddle surfing, a great Golfing sun hat, Sailing sun hat, Boating sun hat and Fishing sun hat - Skeet...