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Your Position: Home - Metal & Metallurgy Machinery - The 11 most frequently asked questions about fume extraction

The 11 most frequently asked questions about fume extraction

Author: Bonny

Jun. 30, 2025

The 11 most frequently asked questions about fume extraction

When it comes to welding fume extraction, a couple of questions are frequently asked. Often it is about the performance, weight or handling of fume extraction torches, but also the service life of welding fume filters in extraction devices or the correct volume flow control are recurring topics.

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Since welding fumes are toxic and the extraction of welding fumes should be mandatory to protect employees, we answer the most frequently asked questions about welding fume extraction and clear up common prejudices and concerns so that you can find the perfect solution for you and your welders.

1. Do fume extraction torches perform less?

The use of fume extraction torches is not associated with a loss of performance! So you're not sacrificing performance in exchange for safety and better health protection. Today's fume extraction torches withstand the performance comparison with regular welding torches in the range of 200-500 amperes (air or liquid-cooled) and that in almost every possible situation that you can handle with a standard MIG/MAG welding torch. The functional scope of the torches is also identical.

2. Can I connect fume extraction torches to my welding machine?

Fume extraction torches can basically be configured for industrial welding machines without any problems.

If the welding machine does not have a Euro central connector, connecting it with adapter solutions or suitable hose packages with other power source connections is no problem. In addition to the welding machine, a fume extraction torch must also be connected to an extraction system. There are also suitable connecting hoses or adapter pieces for different hose diameters.

3. Are the outer hoses of fume extraction torches sensitive to fire and how long do they last?

The suction hose of fume extraction torches is made of a special material that can withstand UV rays and heat. As with all hose package components, the outer hose of fume extraction torches must also be replaced from time to time, depending on the conditions of use. However, the hose packages including the outer hose are designed to be so robust that they achieve a long service life when used properly in industrial applications. Additional covers, e.g. made of leather, are available to protect the outer hose.

4. Is the shielding gas also captured by fume extraction torches?

This question arises very frequently with fume extraction torches. Under certain circumstances, improper handling may result in shielding gas being captured as well. Then the atmospheric air reaches the weld seam, which can lead to pore formation and expensive rework. However, if you follow a few simple things, both welding fume extraction and optimum shielding gas coverage are ensured. If the extraction is too strong or too close to the welding process, turbulences will form near the end of the shielding gas nozzle. Therefore, when extracting the fumes, make sure that the air flow, which is only intended to capture the harmful fumes, does not reach the zone of the shielding gas. Many fume extraction torches also offer a slider in the handle to regulate the amount of external air and thus adjust the extraction power. In addition, exact settings can often be made on the extraction unit.

5. Are fume extraction torches heavier compared to standard welding torches?

If you look back at the first generations of fume extraction torches, you can say that this was definitely a problem.

The weight of the additional components to be accommodated in fume extraction torches made them heavier, bulky and unwieldy compared to standard welding torches. A lot has happened in the meantime, and the development of fume extraction torches has placed a lot of emphasis on weight reduction, better accessibility, as well as the ergonomics of the welding torch.

As a result, modern fume extraction torches are much more ergonomic and user-friendly than their predecessor models. The development even goes so far that some fume extraction torches - and this also includes the ABICOR BINZEL fume extraction torches - weigh less than comparable welding torches that do not have a fume extraction function.

6. Is welding with fume extraction torches more physically demanding for my welders, even if it is healthier?

This depends on various factors: Which welding torch was used before? In which welding position do you weld? How heavy is the fume extraction torch being used?

If a heavy, cumbersome fume extraction torch is used, this can affect the welder's endurance. But here, too, the individual exposure to an extraction torch depends on which welding torch was used before and how heavy it was. Since there are now fume extraction torches on the market that can keep up with most standard MIG/MAG welding torches in terms of handling and weight or even weigh less, it is not necessarily assumed that there will be increased physical strain.

The strain also depends on the welding position in which the welder has to work. Overhead or vertical up positions are generally more stressful than horizontal or vertical down positions. In this case, using a heavy fume extraction torch can be more physically demanding and, depending on the welding position, can also negatively affect the extraction performance if less welding fume is captured by holding the fume extraction torch unfavorably than under ideal conditions. For more tips, read our blog Welding correctly with fume extraction torches: 3 practical tips.

Try out which fume extraction torch fits best for your circumstances and see for yourself if you can tell a difference. There are also welding torches available with a ball joint at the connection of the hose package and hose packages that are weight-reduced and similar to those of a MIG/MAG welding torch without extraction. This can improve handling and reduce physical exertion during use.

Protecting the welder by capturing the harmful welding fumes does not have to be paid for by more physically strenuous work.

7. Are there differences in wear parts for fume extraction torches?

With fume extraction torches, the extraction nozzle is the only additional wear part. The structure otherwise corresponds to that of a common MIG/MAG welding torch: gas diffusor, tip holder, contact tip and gas nozzle. At ABICOR BINZEL and most other manufacturers, the wear parts such as the gas diffusor, tip holder and contact tip are exactly the same as with regular MIG/MAG welding torches.

8. Are all filler metals suitable when it comes to fume extraction?

In a nutshell: Yes, fume extraction torches are suitable for every wire - regardless of whether you use flux-cored wire, metal core wire or solid wire as a filler material. However, depending on the wire being used, this can lead to increased welding fumes. When welding with metal core and solid wire electrodes, higher currents are usually used and hotter gas mixtures are generated. Therefore, the welding fume spreads faster and the welding position becomes more difficult for capturing the welding fumes directly at the source.

A common misunderstanding when it comes to fume extraction is with metal core wire. There is a widespread myth that welding metal core wire with a clean gas mixture such as CO2 releases a “clean” smoke that does not need to be captured. Since toxic particles still escape into the ambient air when the base metal is melted, welders and all other employees in the vicinity breathe in these toxic particles when welding is carried out without a suitable extraction torch or extraction system.

When welding cored wire, a clearly visible, thick smoke is generated. In addition, many particles are released that should be captured directly where they are generated. Extraction at the source is significantly simplified, since cored wire is generally used for welding with low currents.

9. How long does the welding fume filter last with an extraction system?

How long welding fume filters last is difficult to predict. In systems with an automatic cleaning mechanism, the filters usually last between 6 and 12 months. In systems without an automatic cleaning process, there are many factors that affect the service life of the welding fume filter: the size of the filter itself, the used filler metal, the base material and the settings for the welding process. When using e.g. high vacuum systems without an automatic cleaning system, the filter may have to be replaced after just two coils of cored wire.

LEV systems usually do not have an automatic monitoring of the filter, i.e. there is no signal to indicate whether the filter is due to being replaced. It is difficult to specify an interval for the filter change, because how long the filter will last depends on the duty cycle, the welding process, the welded material and much more. For fume extraction systems from ABICOR BINZEL, we guarantee a minimum service life of the main filter cassette of at least 4 weeks to 12 months with a daily operating time of 3 to 4 hours.

Regardless of this information, it is important to always keep an eye on the efficiency of the extraction system. If the extraction wears off, the filter should be checked first! In some systems, built-in sensors or displays alert you when the differential pressure in the filter becomes too high.

Read more in our blog What you should consider with welding fume filters.

10. What is the maximum volume flow rate for a fume extraction system? Which volume flow is the right one?

With fume extraction arms, the volume flow should be in the range of - m3/h. With some extraction arms, however, this value is also lower. Compared to solutions that are combined with fume extraction torches, these systems ideally have a higher volume flow and a lower static pressure. It should be noted that the volume flow rate is the main performance indicator for fume extraction systems.

Mobile extraction devices, on the other hand, are rated more according to static pressure and not according to volume flow. The typical range here is 100-170 m3/h.

An important point to keep in mind is that the volume flow mentioned in most product catalogs does not imply any restrictions, which is seldom the case in reality. There is no simple answer to which volume flow is the right one when you connect a fume extraction torch to an extraction system. Since fume extraction torches only allow settings to a limited extent, when choosing a fume extraction system, consider that it must generate a sufficiently high static pressure in order to compensate for the pressure losses that always occur in the torch and to meet the standards. The currently valid standard DIN EN ISO states that fume extraction torches with a power of >200 A at the extraction nozzle must achieve an induced speed of 0.35 m/s. For fume extraction torches in the power range of <200 A, the required induced speed at the extraction nozzle is reduced to 0.25 m/s.

11. Can I adjust the volume flow directly on the fume extraction system?

There are fume extraction systems where you can adjust the extraction power (min/max) directly at the system. Ask your consulting company about such solutions. With the xFUME® ADVANCED, ABICOR BINZEL offers a fume extraction system with adjustable volume flow control.

Do you have further questions about fume extraction? Feel free to leave us a comment or contact us using this form!

Read all about fume extraction in our free eBook:

If you are looking for more details, kindly visit Fuming Furnace.

Notice a Burning Smell from Turning on the Heat? | Zimmerman

Why Is There A Burning Smell When I Turn On The Heat

When winter approaches and the temperatures start dropping, you’ll likely fire up your heating system for the first time in many months. While the feeling of warm air is enjoyable, it’s sometimes accompanied by a burning smell in your house that can be strange or unpleasant. This doesn’t necessarily mean you need to call the fire department, but you shouldn’t ignore the smell, either. Some odors are normal, and others are signs of potential danger.

Keep reading to learn about the various smells that can occur, what they mean and whether they require any action.

Is It Normal for Your Heater to Smell Like It’s Burning?

Should the heater smell like it’s burning? The answer to this question is sometimes yes and sometimes no. For instance, if you turn on your heater for the first time of the season and smell burning dust, this is completely normal. It just means there’s dust in your heating unit, which is harmless and should burn off quickly. If you smell an electrical burning smell, on the other hand, this is not normal at all. It could be a sign of a serious electrical issue that could lead to a fire.

Heating units can also emit a variety of other smells, each of which we’ll cover in the following section.

Why Does It Smell When I Turn on the Heat?

Smells from your heater can come from a variety of sources, including dust or mold within your system, a blocked exhaust vent or an electrical malfunction. Here are some common causes of a burning smell when you turn on the heat and what you should do in each situation.

1. Burning Dust Smell

The burning smell coming from your heater most often occurs when the heating is turned on for the first time in the winter season. If many months have passed since its last use, dust and other types of debris may collect on the burners, heat exchangers, air ducts and other components of the heating unit. When you turn the furnace on, this dust and debris burn off, releasing a smoky odor.

If you smell burning dust, don’t worry. Once the dust and debris have burned off, the odor should go away. However, if this odor lingers around or becomes stronger, try changing out the air filter. If the smell persists after the air filter has been switched, turn your unit off and contact an HVAC expert to perform emergency maintenance.

2. Musty Smell

If you turn your furnace on for the first time of the season, it may smell musty, which indicates mold or mildew. It could be either in the heating unit itself or in the ductwork. It could also be trapped on the furnace filter or humidifier pad, if your unit has one.

Sometimes, the mold and mildew is attached to the debris that will burn off eventually. However, if this odor doesn’t go away, the first thing you should do is clean or replace your air filters. If the filters are brand new or cleaning them doesn’t remove the smell, contact an HVAC expert to perform a professional cleaning and inspection of your system.

To avoid this musty smell in the future, make sure to inspect the filter regularly and replace or clean it whenever necessary. Either dispose of the humidifier pad or if its washable, create a solution that’s equal parts water and vinegar. Stick the filter in the solution and clean it gently.

3. Electrical Burning Smell

If there is an electrical burning odor coming from your heater, this could be harmless or something very serious.

In some cases, this smell can come from a foreign object in the ductwork of your HVAC system, which will begin to smell as it heats up. Take out your registers and inspect them visually to clean or remove objects that don’t belong.

In other cases, an electrical burning smell could indicate a serious electrical issue. If you’ve ever been outside during a thunderstorm, you’ve probably smelled ozone, which is somewhat similar to chlorine. Your heater may produce a similar smell if it overheats.

As your heater gets older, a worn bearing might make the blower motor bind or seize up. It may then draw extra electricity to help it push through the resistance, and that additional voltage could lead to an excessive buildup of heat.

This heat can be enough to melt the insulation on the wires, and soon your heating unit could produce sparks and electrical shorts that emit the odor. If not dealt with, these melting wires could produce enough heat to be dangerous.

If you smell an electrical burning odor and it is not the result of something stuck in the ductwork, immediately turn your unit off and contact an experienced technician.

4. Rotten Eggs Smell

If you have a gas – or propane furnace that’s giving off a sulfur or rotten eggs smell, this is a probably sign of a natural gas leak. You should leave the premises immediately and call your gas company. Do not try to pinpoint the leak yourself, and do not return to the house until you’ve been told it’s safe to do so. Gas leaks can be extremely dangerous and should always be left to the professionals.

Natural gas is extremely flammable, and its combustibility is why it makes such a great fuel source for appliances in your house. Unfortunately, this gas can also be dangerous if inhaled, causing nausea, dizziness, irregular breathing and fatigue.

Natural gas doesn’t have an odor of its own, which is why gas companies add the pungent chemical mercaptan for safety. This chemical is sulfur-based and gives off the distinct odor of rotten eggs, letting you know that natural gas is nearby.

5. Pet Odors

Sometimes turning on your furnace will produce the odor of pet hair or waste. If you smell this whenever you turn on your furnace, take a look at the ventilation registers on the floor level. There’s a good chance that there’s a mess by this vent, and cleaning it up should solve the issue.

6. Sewage Stench

If you get a whiff of sewage coming out of the vents, there might be a broken wastewater line or open sewer line not far from the heating system. Quickly inspect the external vents, which should help determine the source of the odor. You might need to contact a plumber to fix the problem.

7. Smell of Chemicals

If you smell chemicals after turning on your furnace, this is definitely something you shouldn’t ignore. If the odor has a distinct chemical smell similar to formaldehyde, chances are that your furnace’s heat exchanger is broken. The heat exchanger functions by cycling heat from the combustion chamber into the plenum, and if this part is broken, the risk of fire increases dramatically. Carbon monoxide fumes may also be released, which have no odor or color.

If you smell chemicals, turn the furnace off immediately, open some windows and contact your HVAC professional right away. Follow these steps to stay safe from Carbon Monoxide.

8. Smoke Smell

If you smell smoke coming from your furnace, immediately turn it off and open some windows. This smell may occur if the furnace chimney, also known as an “exhaust vent” or “flue pipe,” is blocked. The combustion exhaust from the furnace has to go somewhere, and if it can’t escape through the flue pipe, it is forced to go elsewhere.

In such a situation, it is critical to assess your safety. For instance, if the odor is faint, just open some windows for ventilation and contact a professional. However, if the smell comes suddenly or is strong, it would be safer to leave your home temporarily until a technician arrives and determines the source of the smoke.

9. Oil

If you smell oil after turning on your heater, this likely means the filter on the furnace is clogged. If you change out the filter, the smell should go away. However, if the new filter doesn’t do the job, speak with an HVAC professional.

When to Call an Expert

Some smells go away fast or just require a quick fix, but others mean you should call a professional – often immediately. Here is a closer look at which smells require a professional and which ones likely don’t:

  • Burning dust: In most cases, you do not need to call an expert. This smell is usually the result of accumulated dust on burners, air ducts or other furnace parts, and it should burn off quickly. If the odor lingers, switch the air filter. If the smell still doesn’t go away, contact an HVAC professional to inspect your unit.
  • Mold or mildew: In most cases, there is no need to contact an expert. If you smell mold or mildew after turning on your heater, treat it like burning dust — first, wait for it to burn off on its own. If it doesn’t burn off, then try changing out your air filters. If the musty smell is still around, call a local professional.
  • Electrical burning: Whether you call a professional depends on the situation. If you notice a foreign object in the ductwork, such as a toy or spill, and removing it causes the smell to go away, then no further action is required. However, if you cannot find any objects in your ductwork — or removing the object does not make the smell go away — this could indicate a serious electrical issue. You should turn off your unit and contact an HVAC expert immediately. An electrical issue can cause the blower motor to bind or seize up, which forces the unit to draw extra electricity. This can cause the unit to overheat and melt the insulation on the wires, leading to the production of electrical shorts and sparks. That is likely the source of the odor, and it will need professional attention.
  • Rotten eggs: If you smell rotten eggs, evacuate your home and call your gas company immediately. There is most likely a leak in a natural gas line. While you may be tempted to go shut off your natural gas line, its combustibility poses too great a risk to your safety. You should go outside and remain there until you the gas company says it’s safe to go back in.
  • Pets: If you smell pet odors when you turn on your heater, there is no need to call an expert. Instead, go examine your heater’s ventilator registers on the floor level. Chances are this pet smell is coming from a mess located next to or near the vent. Clean it up, and the smell should go away.
  • Sewage: If you smell sewage when turning on your heater, you may need to call an expert plumber, as this stench may indicate a open sewer or broken wastewater line. If you look around the heater’s external vents, you may be able to pinpoint the source of the smell.
  • Chemicals: If you smell chemicals, particularly one similar to formaldehyde, you should definitely call an HVAC technician right away. But first, don’t forget to turn the heater off and open up some windows. The smell of a formaldehyde-like chemical probably indicates a failure of your heat exchanger, which dramatically increases the risk of a fire. This could also be accompanied by carbon monoxide fumes, a notoriously lethal gas.
  • Smoke: If you smell smoke, call an expert. However, before you call, it’s important to ensure your safety, which will depend on the intensity of the smoke. If the odor isn’t too strong, just open up a few windows for ventilation before calling. If the smell is strong and appears suddenly, however, then we recommend that you leave your home immediately and stay there until the technician arrives and fixes the issue. Smoke coming from a heater is usually caused by a blockage in the flue pipe, which forces the smoke to escape out through the ductwork.
  • Oil: If you smell oil, check your filter before you call an HVAC professional. Often a clogged filter can cause the smell. If you just change out this filter, then the odor should disappear. However, if the smell persists, call an HVAC technician, as it may be a sign of an oil leak.

How Zimmerman Can Help

The smells coming from heating units can indicate a lot of different types of problems — some of which need the professionals at Zimmerman Plumbing and HVAC. If you’re a homeowner living in and around Harrisburg, PA, you can trust our reliable HVAC repair and maintenance services and plumbing solutions.

Are you interested in learning more about Arsenic Reduction Furnace? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!

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