A Complete Guide to Timing Belts - RS Components

Despite their similar names, timing belts and timing chains are not the same components. Note that a timing chain is a physical linked chain, like a bicycle chain. This is opposed to the rubber loop typically found in a standard cambelt setup. Each configuration has upsides and downsides.

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The main benefit of a timing chain is that its metal construction makes it much more hardwearing, and far less prone to periodic replacement. Timing chains need constant lubrication to function properly, are louder in operation than rubber or fabric-type belts and can cause far more severe and widespread damage on the rare occasions that they fail catastrophically.

Moreover, timing chain tensioners are controlled by engine oil pressure. This means it becomes even more critical to maintain this at the correct bar level at all times. By contrast, water pump pressure dictates the proper functioning of cambelt tensioners, which is why you’ll often get a recommendation to replace your water pump at the same time as having a new timing belt fitted.

We know that a cambelt is a vital component of internal combustion engines. However, what does a timing belt do, exactly, and how do different types of timing belts play similarly crucial roles in a variety of other systems and mechanisms?

Timing belts are typically ridged with a circumference of protruding rubber teeth, and in an engine, it’s these teeth that enable the loop of timing belt material to turn the camshafts via the crankshaft as the various parts rotate at a consistent ratio of speed. Together, these components are thus responsible for opening and closing the intake and exhaust valves in an engine.

When a cambelt is in good working order and functioning correctly, the opening and closing of these valves are maintained at an optimal rhythm to match the up-and-down motion of pistons within the engine’s cylinders, allowing for the smooth and efficient functioning of the entire apparatus as the engine cycles through each of its various strokes (usually intake, compression, power, and exhaust).

In the case of a broken or failing timing belt, engine valves can be left stuck in an open position. This risks serious damage to the mechanism of so-called interference engines if they can be struck repeatedly by the pistons. Non-interference engines avoid this particular complication by keeping the valves and pistons separately confined. However, the engine will still be immobilised without a functioning cambelt installed.

As timing belts loop around a series of pulleys to connect up all the relevant engine components in sequence, they tend to rely on a number of tensioners to keep the ideal tension on the belt along its full length. These will usually need to be replaced along with new cambelts, as they’re almost always roughly the same age as the main belt and have a similar expected lifespan.

Due to the particular role timing belts play in synchronising the rotation speed of two differently sized shafts, there are many variables to be taken into consideration when assessing the correct belt size for the application and system you need it to fit.

Key factors to consider include cambelt width, material, and the number of teeth or pitch. Common timing belt pitch ratings include 3mm, 5mm and 8mm, but the correct choice will depend entirely on the specifics of your system or project, as well as overall power transmission requirements and the various shaft speeds in the mechanism it’s being fitted to.

Both the environment in which the timing belt is being fitted to work in and the subsequent suitability of material choices will also have a profound impact on the precise sizing and configuration of the best timing belt for your needs.

I’m getting ready to replace the timing belt on my '97 Hyundai Elantra. Are all aftermarket timing belts pretty much the same? Is a factory replacement the way to go?

I have a NAPA, a CarQuest, and an Advanced Auto in my town, and a dealer nearby. Just wondering from whom I should get this vital component.



Thanks!

Your choices are: Gates, Dayco or Goodyear for after market. Any other brands most probably made by either of the 3 companies. For more expensive belt, go to the dealer. Just so you know, the OEM is not made by the car maker. They are still made by one of the 3 belt makers with the difference that the OEMs were marked with the OEM logo (brand, #, etc)…

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I suspected OEM belts had to be supplied by someone. Any idea of what stores carry what brands?

You’ll have to do the research yourself. It’s IMPOSSIBLE for us to tell you what stores in your area carry what brands…especially since we don’t know where you live.

Get a price for aftermarket…then check the OEM price. As I stated the OEM belts I’ve bought (Honda Accords and Nissan Pathfinders) were only $1 or 2 more then aftermarket. Not sure who makes their OEM belt.

Any idea of what stores carry what brands?

While it is true that the manufacturers don’t make the belts, any belt that carries their name is made to their specifications. Belts from non-OEM manufacturers don’t necessarily meet the same specifications.

If I were looking into doing this job myself, I would be looking for more than the timing belt. I would be looking for the whole timing belt replacement kit, which might include other items like the timing belt tensioner and any other items you might need for the job, depending on the manufacturer’s recommendation. An auto parts store might have the whole kit, but personally, I would buy it at a dealership. It might be worth a few extra dollars. Sometimes you get what you pay for.

I found out that NAPA timing belts are made by Gates which seem to have a good reputation, so I am going with one of theirs. It comes as a kit with
the tensioner pulley. The idler was not included, so I’m going to check out the idler when I have it apart and examine it.

I’ve been a government fleet mechanic for 25 (+) years. The only time you should use carquest, advanced, autozone, etc is when you are buying parts for a car you don’t plan to keep. Napa is very reliable and trustworthy eventhough you’ll find their prices are a bit higher - there is a reason why they have been around longer then the latest chain/7-11 parts stores. Factory parts are often the best route to go if you want to pay their prices - rediculous. Remeber, there is always some geeky little crackhead at the dealership just waiting to soak up your money.

If you have ever walked through a NAPA, CARQUEST, BIG A, ALL PRO and a few others you will find all of them stock mostly the same brands. It’s the Zones and Advances that sell sub-par quality parts. Some brands are better than OEM, Moog suspension in particular.

“Factory parts are often the best route to go if you want to pay their prices - rediculous. Remeber, there is always some geeky little crackhead at the dealership just waiting to soak up your money.” Since he lost his job as a goverment fleet mechanic for 25 (+) years.

How is that AutoZone or Advance sells sub-par parts? Both places have gladly handed me MOOG suspension parts, Melling oil pumps, Fel-Pro gasket sets, Bosch O2 sensors, Goodyear belts and hoses, Perfect Circle piston rings, Timken bearings, Motorcraft alternators/starters, Raybestos brakes, etc., etc.

I’ve never had a problem with Car Quest either; at least when we had one in this area. It closed not due to shoddy parts but a store manager who was into dirt racing and keeping his buddies supplied with Car Quest Corporate parts at sharply discounted or free rates. Eventually, to almost a 100 grand, he pushed it too far…

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