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Textile finishing machinery, Red Bridge Mills, Ainsworth, 1983In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finish textile or clothing. The precise meaning depends on context.
Fabric after leaving the loom or knitting machine is not readily useable. Called grey cloth at this stage, it contains natural and added impurities. Sometimes it is also processed at fiber or yarn stages of textile manufacturing. Grey fiber or yarn or fabric goes through a series of processes such as wet processing and finishing. Finishing is a broad range of physical and chemical treatments that complete one stage of textile manufacturing and may prepare for the next step, making the product more receptive to the next stage of manufacturing. Finishing adds value to the product and makes it more attractive, useful, and functional for the end-user. Improving surface feel, aesthetics, and addition of advanced chemical finishes are some examples of textile finishing.[3]
Some finishing techniques such as bleaching and dyeing are applied to yarn before it is woven while others are applied to the grey cloth directly after it is woven or knitted. Some finishing techniques, such as fulling, became outdated with the industrial revolution while others, such as mercerisation, are developments following the Industrial Revolution.
Introduction
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In order to impart the required functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject the material to different types of physical and chemical treatments. For example, wash and wear finish for a cotton fabric is necessary to make it crease-free or wrinkle-free. In a similar way, mercerising, singeing, flame retardant, water repellent, waterproof, anti-static and peach finishing achieve various fabric properties desired by consumers.
The use of 100% synthetic textiles has increased considerably since the development of textured yarns made of filaments and the growing production of knit goods. The use of open weave has enabled the production of lighter, breathable, fabrics to ensure better wearing comfort.
The properties of petroleum-based synthetic fibers, most important among them being polyamide, polyester and polyacrylonitrile, are essentially different from those of natural cellulosic and protein-based (wool) fibers. Hence the sequence of finishing operations is likely to be different. While cellulosic fabrics require a resin finishing treatment to impart easy-care properties, synthetic fibers already exhibit these easy-care criteria and require only a heat setting operation.
Finishing of cotton
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Purification and preliminary processes
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The grey cloth—woven cotton fabric in its loom-state—not only contains impurities, including warp size, but requires further treatment in order to develop its full textile potential. Furthermore, it may receive considerable added value by applying one or more finishing processes.[5][6]
Singeing
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Singeing is a preparation method of textiles; it is applied more commonly to woven textiles and cotton yarns. Singeing in textiles is a mechanical treatment or finish to obtain a neat surface of the fabric or less hairy yarn. In a singeing machine, the yarns or fabrics are exposed to direct flames to burn the protruding fibers of the textile materials. Hence, also called "gassing".[8][9][10]
Designing
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Depending on the size that has been used, the cloth may be steeped in a dilute acid and then rinsed, or enzymes may be used to break down the size.[10]
Scouring
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Scouring is a chemical washing process carried out on cotton fabric to remove natural wax and non-fibrous impurities (e.g. the remains of seed fragments) from the fibres and any adventitious oil, soiling or dirt. Scouring was used to carry in iron vessels called kiers. The fabric was boiled in an alkali, which forms a soap with free fatty acids (saponification). A kier is usually enclosed, so the solution of sodium hydroxide can be boiled under pressure, excluding oxygen which would degrade the cellulose in the fibre. If the appropriate reagents are used, scouring will also remove size from the fabric although desizing often precedes scouring and is considered to be a separate process known as fabric preparation. Preparation and scouring are prerequisites to most of the other finishing processes. At this stage even the most naturally white cotton fibres are yellowish, and bleaching, the next process, is required.[10]
Bleaching
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Bleaching improves whiteness by removing natural coloration and remaining trace impurities from the cotton; the degree of bleaching necessary is determined by the required whiteness and absorbency. Cotton being a vegetable fibre will be bleached using an oxidizing agent, such as dilute sodium hypochlorite or dilute hydrogen peroxide. If the fabric is to be dyed a deep shade, then lower levels of bleaching are acceptable, for example. However, for white bed sheetings and medical applications, the highest levels of whiteness and absorbency are essential.[11]
Mercerising
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A further possibility is mercerizing, during which the fabric is treated with a caustic soda solution to cause swelling of the fibres. This results in improved luster, strength, and dye affinity. Cotton is mercerized under tension, and all alkali must be washed out before the tension is released or shrinkage will take place. Mercerizing can take place directly on grey cloth, or after bleaching.[12]
Coloration
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Color is a sensation caused when white light from a source such as the sun is reflected off a pigment on the surface. The pigment selectively reflects certain wavelengths of light while absorbing others. A dye can be considered as a substance that can be fixed to a material that has these properties. The colour it reflects is defined by the structure of the molecule, and particularly the parts of the chromogen molecule called the chromophore group. [13] There are two processes used to apply colour:
Dyeing
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Cotton is an absorbent fibre which responds readily to colouration processes. Dyeing is commonly carried out with an anionic direct dye by completely immersing the fabric (or yarn) in an aqueous dyebath according to a prescribed procedure. For improved fastness to washing, rubbing, and light, other dyes such as vats and reactives are commonly used. These require more complex chemistry during processing and are thus more expensive to apply.[14]
Printing
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Printing is the application of colour in the form of a paste or ink to the surface of a fabric, in a predetermined pattern. It may be considered as localised dyeing. Printing designs on to already dyed fabric is also possible. The common processes are block printing, roller printing and screen printing
Finishing
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Mechanical finishing
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Mechanical finish refers to machine finishes such as embossing, heat setting, sanforizing, sheering, various, luster imparting, surface finishes, and glaze finishes.[15][16]
Mechanical Finishes[16] Raised surface finishes Luster imparting Glaze and design Gigging Calendering Embossing Napping Beetling Moire Sueding FlockingRaising
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Another finishing process is raising. During raising, the fabric surface is treated with sharp teeth to lift the surface fibres, thereby imparting hairiness, softness, and warmth, as in flannelette.
Shearing
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Shearing is a kind of mechanical finish in which the appearance of the fabric is enhanced by cutting the loops or raised surface to a uniform and even height. The machine may have a spiral blade similar to a grass cutting machine.[17][18] A Shearing machine can cut the loop or the pile to a desired level.[19]
Peaching
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Peaching is also a mechanical finish comparable to raising but very gentle. The peach effect on fabrics is obtained by sanding the fabrics slightly; it imparts a protruded surface and soft feel. The peaching finish is also possible with certain chemicals or laundry abrasion.[20]
Calendering
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Calendering is the third important mechanical process, in which the fabric is passed between heated rollers to generate smooth, polished or embossed effects depending on roller surface properties and relative speeds.[21]
Chemical finishing
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Many other chemical treatments may be applied to cotton fabrics to produce low flammability, crease resist and other special effects.
Shrinking
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Mechanical shrinking (sometimes referred to as sanforizing), whereby the fabric is forced to shrink width and/or lengthwise, creates a fabric in which any residual tendency to shrink after subsequent laundering is minimal. [22] Fibers to fabric conversion lead to many mechanical tensions and forces during manufacturing, which includes following steps for fibre to yarn conversion with spinning then fabric with weaving, and knitting. When the products are immersed in water, the water acts as a relaxing medium and all stresses and strains get relaxed and try to come back to its original relaxed state. Even after finishing with sophisticated finishing machines, some residual shrinkage remains, which is carried forward to the garment stage. This residual shrinkage may cause deformity or de-shaping of the products after domestic laundry. There are certain acceptance limits of shrinkage levels for every product. Abnormal shrinkage levels are considered a non-conformity to quality standards.
Standard finishes
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Special finishes for natural fibers
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Special finishes for synthetic fibers
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citation needed
] In general, Thermasol anti-static agents also have a good soil release action, which is as permanent as the anti-static effect. Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type, being curable at moderate temperatures.See also
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References
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Biography
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When talking about fabrics, everyone has heard of cotton. It is made from the cellulose fibers of the cotton plant, which get spun into threads that are then woven into fabric. Cotton has been around for centuries with diverse species of the plant found in Mexico, Australia, and Africa. It won’t be farfetched to say that all of us have some form of clothing or accessory that is made from this material.
But what is brushed cotton? It is a woven cotton fabric that is, as the name suggests, brushed to create a soft, napped texture. Essentially, ‘brushed cotton’ is the result of a process carried out on regular cotton that takes this multifarious fabric to the next level of aesthetics and functionality.
Brushing is a finishing process used to raise the surface fibers of a fabric. The fabric undergoes a mechanical brushing process in which fine, metal brushes carefully rub the fabric to produce fine fibers from the woven yarns, creating extra softness on the surface of the fabric. Cotton can be gently brushed on both sides to make it soft to the touch.
Chiara Rubinelli, from the Italian mill Grandi & Rubinelli, says, “Usually when most fabrics are finished, a flame is applied to singe away any raised fibers so its surface is completely smooth. Brushed cotton undergoes the complete opposite treatment. We do not remove the fluff on the surface of the cloth, but instead, exaggerate it. We do this using specially engineered mechanical metal brushes, which tease the fibers out from the surface of the fabric. It’s a technique that goes back many centuries – originally, it was done using the dry, spikey heads of thistles. This creates a beautifully soft handle, similar to a fine wool cloth, but it’s incredibly comfortable against the skin, absent of any itchiness.”
Brushing cotton creates raised fluffy fibers that trap air particles, thereby improving the insulation capacities of the fabric. Dr. Hugh Gong of the School of Materials at Manchester University says, ‘Anything that reduces the contact with the skin reduces the amount of heat being conducted away from our bodies.’
Owing to this, brushed cotton is widely used for bedding items such as sheets and pillowcases as well as garments. Luca Faloni, the owner of the Italian brand, Luca Faloni, says, ‘Brushed cotton…provides protection against wind chill, but it doesn’t make you feel overheated. Usually, during cooler spells, you might need to wear a V-neck in-between your shirt and jacket, but with brushed cotton, you don’t have to as it’s such a good insulator; it saves you the trouble of bulking up with multiple layers. People normally are used to poplin or Oxford cotton which are very fresh, crisp, and light; brushed cotton has all the comfort of a T-shirt, but is a far more premium and elegant material.”
The terms are sometimes used interchangeably though there is a difference. Brushed cotton involves brushing on the face side, resulting in a fabric that is soft, retains heat but is also breathable. Flannel or Flannelette fabric is brushed on both sides, resulting in a fuzzier, warmer, and thicker fabric. Not to mention, flannel was originally made from wool but now is often made of cotton or other synthetic materials.
Cotton per se is remarkably easy to sew with. Experienced seamstresses would recommend using cotton for beginners. The fabric doesn’t slip, is easy to iron, and is easy to wash if you want to pre-shrink the fabric before starting your project. The fabric is machine washable at 30-40 degrees in cold settings, especially for colored fabrics.
Printing on brushed cotton has never been easier. You can use your photos, or even your artwork, and upload them to our design interface. From there you can choose whether you want to make your design bigger, smaller, or even to repeat the design. This is a great way to turn your favorite patterns into your next craft project and can be done in just a few clicks.
Now that you know what is brushed cotton, get your hands on our swatch pack to pick the fabric for your next DIY project.
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