Ask anyone what the most overlooked element of a man’s wardrobe is and they probably won’t even think to mention shoelaces. What does that tell you?
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Yes, the bits of string that stop your shoes from falling off (unless you’re a 13-year-old skateboarder from 2002) may not be the most exciting part of your outfit, but you wouldn’t get very far without them. Literally. What’s more, if you know the right tricks when it comes to how to lace shoes, you can harness them as another subtle way to add a new style dimension to your look.
Because as nerdy as this surely is, how you lace your shoes should depend on which type of shoes you’re actually lacing in the first place. How you tie your smart shoes can be very different to how you lace your Vans
Learn the proper way to lace shoes using the different methods below and find out which one is best for your favourite shoes.
How To Lace Shoes: 5 Different Ways To Do It
According to mathematics that are impossible to understand, renowned shoelace publication New Scientist claims there are a dizzying 400-million possible ways to lace up the average seven-eyelet stomper. Thankfully, we’re not going to be looking at all of them today, but here are a few of the key ways to lace your shoes it’s well worth filling your boots with.
1. Cross-Lacing
Look down at your trainers. The reason they’re not falling off right now is probably that they’re held in place using this type of lacing.
The most common way of fastening shoes, cross-lacing involves threading the lace through the bottom sets of eyelets, leaving an equal length each side, and gradually crisscrossing up to each additional eyelet, one side at a time, until you reach the top.
Step 1: Both lace ends should be inserted downwards through the bottom two eyelets, leaving equal length on both.
Step 2: Take the left lace and place it downwards through the top of the second eyelet on the right. It should now be crossing over the tongue.
Step 3: Do exactly the same to the other lace and insert it downwards through the top of the next eyelet on the left.
Step 4: Continue lacing in this way, one side at a time and remember to put each lace down through the top of each eyelet.
2. European Straight Lacing
If you’ve ever worn a pair of closed-lace dress shoes, this is most likely the lace pattern used. It’s a method well-suited to Oxford shoes and other smart styles as it looks clean and neat from the top.
The laces run straight from eyelet to eyelet across the top of the shoe, while a zig-zag pattern underneath allows them to be tightened with ease.
Step 1: Insert both lace ends downwards into each of the bottom holes.
Step 2: Take the left lace and insert it up and through the next free right eyelet.
Step 3: Take the right lace and place it up and through the third eyelet on the left, skipping out the second. There should now be an empty hole on the left hand side.
Step 4: Insert what is now the right lace downward into this free eyelet, which should be directly opposite it.
Step 5: Follow this process until completion, repeating the steps above for each lace.
3. Over-Under Lacing
Great for trainers or for adding a dash of personality to dress shoes, over-under lacing pretty much does exactly what it says on the tin.
Start off the same as you would when making a cross lace, but instead of going up to the next set of eyelets and over the top, go under. After that, go over the top up to the next set of eyelets and keep alternating in this pattern until you get to the top.
Step 1: Insert both lace ends downwards into each of the bottom holes.
Step 2: Put the left lace up and through the next free right hand eyelet.
Step 3: Do the same with the other lace – insert it up and through the first free left hand eyelet.
Step 4: Take what is now the right lace and place it downward through the next available left side eyelet.
Step 5: Do the same with the other lace and repeat this over and under technique until completion.
4. Straight Bar Lacing
If you like your laces neat, tidy and uncluttered then this may be the lacing method you’ve been looking for.
The laces run straight from eyelet to eyelet, horizontally across the top of the shoe. All the excess runs up and under the lace guard on each side, allowing the shoe to be tightened at the top just like normal.
Step 1: Insert both lace ends downwards through the bottom two holes, leaving equal length on both the left and right laces.
Step 2: Looking down on the shoe, insert the left lace up and through the next right hand hole, with its end pointing to the ceiling.
Step 3: Now put the right lace up and through the third eyelet on the left, skipping out the second. There should now be an empty hole on the left hand side.
Step 4: Take what is now the right lace and cross it over, inserting it downward through the empty eyelet on the left. This should create another straight bar, mirroring the first.
Step 5: Do exactly the same with the left hand lace and cross it over, inserting it downward through the empty eyelet opposite it. You should now have three bars.
Step 6: Keep lacing in this way, crossing each lace over to its opposite side to make new bars until you reach the top.
5. Commando Lacing
If not wearing any underpants is no longer giving you the thrill you crave then why not go even more commando by adopting this military-inspired lacing technique next time you put your boots on?
Great for fastening your favorire boot laces swiftly, one end of the lace is permanently anchored at the bottom eyelet, running in a linked ‘S’ shape pattern up the front of the boot and the other end is used for tying off in a slip-knot at the top.
Step 1: Tie a stopper-knot on one end of the lace, before placing the un-knotted end up and through the bottom right eyelet until the knot is taught under the vamp.
Step 2: Take the un-knotted end and run it straight through the opposite bottom eyelet.
Step 3: Now place it up and through the eyelet directly above it before crossing over again down and through the opposite eyelet.
Step 4: Repeat this step across each eyelet until you reach the top. Now tie another stopper-knot to tie it off.
Considerations When Re-lacing Shoes
Nothing’s ever simple, is it? And now you can add finding new laces for your shoes to the list. It doesn’t have to be difficult, though. Just follow these pointers and you can’t really put a foot wrong.
When re-lacing your shoes “it really depends on the type of shoe,” says Robbie Evans, men’s own-brand buying manager at Kurt Geiger. “If it’s formal then ideally you’d use a self-colour round lace or you could be braver and contrast a tan leather shoe with a navy or burgundy for example.
“Sports shoes give you a bit more of a licence to be creative – you can be braver with the different types of sizes and colours to create different looks.”
Length Of Lace
A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. That means those shoes you dropped next month’s rent on might be fancy but they’re still going to look naff if they’ve got a set of dangly, rabbit ear-looking laces flopping about every time you take a step.
To make sure you get it right, measure your old laces before you buy a new pair to make sure they’re going to be a good fit for the shoe.
Width Of Lace
Fat laces might have been cool when you were in year seven with the names of your favourite bands scribbled in biro all over your pencil case. But as a fully grown man? Not so much.
As a general rule, don’t go for anything over 1cm and you should be able to avoid looking too ridiculous.
Colour
It should go without saying, but neon shoelaces aren’t exactly the most style-savvy move you can make as a man. Or woman. Or child. Or beast. Or…you get the idea.
In general, aim for laces that either match or complement the colour of your shoes. Brown shoes = brown laces, white shoes with blue accents = white or blue laces. And so on and so forth.
Materials
You’ve probably never even thought about the composition of your shoelaces before but we are living in the future and as such, you can get laces made from some pretty special stuff.
For your winter boots, you might want to consider waxed or even Kevlar laces, while for most other situations, cotton, cord or nylon will do the trick just fine.
Lacing Different Types Of Shoes
Not all shoes should be laced the same. Allow us to walk you through some of the most popular styles and how to lace each and every one like a pro.
How to Lace Vans
When it comes to casual footwear, Vans is one of the most popular brands around. Made famous by Californian skateboarders in the 1970s, the legendary footwear brand soon stomped its way into the mainstream and became a household name.
The most popular models of Vans shoes are the Sk8-Hi, the Era, the Old Skool and the Authentic. The best method for fastening all of these is probably cross-lacing.
When it comes to how to lace Vans, flat laces should be your first port of call and white will work for most colours. However, it’s very important to buy the right length for your shoe as all of these popular models vary widely in the number of eyelets they have.
How to Lace Converse
The Chuck Taylor All Star is probably the most famous sneaker of all time. In fact, it’s nothing short of iconic.
The type of laces you pick to tie your converse will be dependent on two factors: whether your shoes are low top or high top, and what colour they are.
Always opt for flat laces when it comes to Converse and white should work the best in most cases, unless your shoes are completely black. Then it’s just a case of lacing them up, which is usually done using cross-lacing, but a straight bar lace can look good too.
How to Lace Oxford Shoes
Your Oxford dress shoes differ from most of the other shoes in your wardrobe in that they use what’s known as ‘closed lacing’. This means the vamp of the shoe is stitched over the bottom of the lace guards, which gives a slightly less flexible fit but offers a much more formal look.
When it comes to picking laces, you’ll want them to be thin, round and the same colour as your shoes – a black-tie event is no time for risky style experiments.
To fasten them, use either a straight bar lace or a European straight lace. Both will work nicely as they leave a clean, uncluttered pattern on the top of the shoe while allowing for easy adjustment.
How to Lace Sneakers
Bar maybe your slippers, your best sneakers are probably the most comfortable shoes in your collection and the ones that get the most wear. Because of this, it’s important to make sure they’re laced up to perfection.
Whether you opt for flat or round laces will depend entirely on the type of sneaker and on your own personal preference, but for the likes of most light coloured models, flat, white laces will do the trick.
As far as lacing methods go it’s pretty much anything goes, but cross-lacing is definitely the most popular option and always gives a clean, classic look.
How to Lace Derby Shoes
The Derby is the shoe of choice for office workers and business folk all across the world.
This is due in no small part to its unique blend of comfort and smart looks – a mix that no other footwear can match.
Unlike its dressier cousin, the Oxford, the Derby features an open lacing system which makes them a tad more flexible and more forgiving when worn for extended periods of time. However, it can still be laced in much the same way.
Use a thin, round lace, the same colour as the shoe and fasten using either the straight bar lacing method or the European straight method. Both will give a neat look while making adjustments nic
How to Lace Desert Boots
Aside from a pair of white trainers, footwear doesn’t come much more versatile than a pair of desert boots. These adaptable all-rounders are notable for the fact they only tend to have four eyelets in total, which means lacing them up couldn’t be simpler.
The main point to take away with you is that the laces shouldn’t be too long as they’re not going to need to stretch very far, so try to pick something pretty short.
Go for a thin, flat lace in exactly the same colour as the shoe, ensuring its short enough not to leave you with metres of excess. Then use the cross-lacing technique to fix them in place.
How to Lace Hiking Boots
Whether you’re using them to scale the north face of the Matterhorn, or just for nipping out to grab a winter coffee, hiking boots are the trusty old mate who will always have your back.
Return the favour and make sure they’re laced up properly to say thanks.
Both flat and round laces will work nicely here and there’s even scope to experiment with colour. A yellow, red or even a tasteful two-tone or multicoloured lace can work as long as a bit of thought has been put into it. You’ll also want to make sure the laces are long enough to reach right to the top.
Cross-lacing is the only way to get the job done here, so thread the lace through the lowest set of eyelets and do exactly what you’d do with a pair of trainers. Simple.
62 × Different Ways to Lace Shoes
Criss Cross
Probably the most common method of lacing normal shoes and boots, the laces simply criss-cross as they work their way up the shoe.
Over Under
Alternates between outer and inner crossovers, which reduces friction, making it easier to tighten and loosen plus reducing wear and tear.
Lock
Vertical segments with the opposite ends passing underneath form “pulleys” for extra tightening, locking the heels for less slippage in running or climbing shoes.
Gap
Skip a crossover to create a gap in the middle of the lacing, either to bypass a sensitive area of the foot or to increase ankle flexibility.
Straight European
Traditional straight lacing, which appeared to be more common in Europe, has straight sections on the outside and diagonals on the inside.
Straight Bar
Horizontal “bars” on the outside with inner, hidden verticals, which looks neat plus relieves pressure on the upper ridge of the foot.
Hidden Knot
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A variation of “Straight Bar Lacing” with the knot hidden on the inside, resulting in a distinctive look for trendy shoes or dress shoes alike.
Straight Easy
Simplified variation of “Straight Bar Lacing” where one end runs straight from bottom to top while the other end steps through the eyelets.
End Shortening
A variation of “Straight Bar Lacing” with a convoluted path on the inside that invisibly consumes more shoelace, effectively “shortening” the ends.
Commando
Used by various military to lace tall combat boots. One end is anchored at the bottom and the other end is used for tying off at the top.
Hiking / Biking
Distributes pressure evenly, plus keeps knots and ends to the inside – away from scrub (hiking) or to the outside – away from chains (biking).
Quick Tight
Straight lacing split into sections for quick and even tightening. One loose end tightens the top section, the other end tightens the bottom.
Gippo
A blend of “Quick Tight Lacing” and “Corset Lacing”, combining split sections plus closed loops at top for quick, firm tightening of tall boots.
(From: Rene de Wet)
Ukrainian
Permanently-anchored loose ends plus a “captive” starting knot, which saves having to re-tie that first knot each time. (From: Vitaliy Gnatenko)
Corset
Traditional lacing for corsets in which the laces can be gripped and pulled very tightly via the middle loops. Effective – but looks unusual.
Sawtooth
All of the inner diagonals pull at a steep angle, which shifts the alignment of the sides and may fix an otherwise ill-fitting shoe.
Lightning
Looks a bit like a lightning bolt, plus it's lightning fast to lace. The laces run diagonally on the outside, vertically on the inside.
Shoe Shop
Once common in shoe shops when shoes came pre-laced this way. One end runs from bottom to top, the other zig-zags through the eyelets.
Display Shoe
Inside-out version of “Criss Cross Lacing”, often used by shoe stores and photographers to hide the loose ends inside their display shoes.
CAF Combat Boot
The official method prescribed by the Canadian Armed Forces for lacing combat boots, safety boots and lineman boots.
Chevron
Separate sections of “Criss Cross Lacing” and “Display Shoe Lacing”, forming upright and inverted chevrons (∧, ∨) similar to those on military or police uniforms.
Ladder
Distinctive lacing worn on military boots by paratroopers and others. The laces weave horizontally and vertically, forming a secure ladder.
Quick Release Ladder
To speed up the removal of tall boots with many eyelets, this lacing only needs a couple of simple steps to release the top row, then the rest of the lacing loosens instantly.
Spider Web
A decorative method sometimes worn on military boots. The laces weave vertically and diagonally, forming an intricate “web”.
Double Back
The lacing first runs down the shoe, then doubles back up the shoe. Looks interesting plus holds very firmly, but is awkward to tighten.
Bow Tie
Vertical sections on the inside and crossovers on the outside form a “bow tie” outline. Needs minimum shoelace length and thus “lengthens” ends.
Army
Used on combat boots by various armies. Inner crossovers and outer verticals allow the sides to flex more easily – perfect for stiff army boots.
Train Track
Outer verticals and doubled-up inner horizontals look like train tracks and sleepers. Very tight lacing due to the doubled passes through eyelets.
Winter Solstice
Laces take the shortest path through all the eyelets and with hardly any segments visible – reminiscent of the sun's path in mid-winter.
Left Right
One end always emerges through eyelets, the other always feeds in through eyelets, forming “V”s that point alternately left and right.
Double Helix
Laces angled one way on the outside and the other way on the inside. This double helix reduces friction for faster, easier tightening and loosening. (From: Monte Fisher)
Locked Double Helix
A variation of “Double Helix Lacing” with inside-out crossovers, transforming it from a low-friction, fast lacing into a high-friction lacing that “locks” each row.
(From: Matt Jensen)
Double Cross
The laces run three steps forward on the inside, one step back on the outside. The result is short, wide crosses overlapping tall crosses.
Two-One-Three
Lacing across the ankle area in “2-1-3” sequence reduces pinching and may help prevent painful “lace bite” in tightly laced boots or skates.
Hash
The laces are crossed steeply on the outside, then take one step back on the inside, forming overlapping crossovers that resemble hash “#” symbols.
Waffle
This method runs two steps forward, one step back, with double-passes through eyelets. Resembles the grid pattern of a waffle.
Lattice
The outer segments are crossed at a steep angle, allowing them to be woven through each other to form a decorative lattice in the middle.
Zipper
At each eyelet, hook under the prior crossover to “lock” the laces, which helps when lacing tightly. Also looks interesting – a bit like a giant zipper.
Riding Boot
Specifically meant for equestrian or motorbike riding boots that loosen at mid-boot. The laces zig-zag from both ends and tie at the middle.
One Handed
Anchored at top and laced down to the bottom, with the friction of the eyelets sufficient to hold fairly tight without even tying off the loose end.
Segmented
Using two shoelaces per shoe splits the lacing into two segments, each of which can be laced up as tightly or loosely as required for comfort.
Knotted Segment
Tie a “Reef Knot” near the middle of the lacing to permanently set the tightness of the lower section independent of the upper section.
Loop Back
Each side loops back on itself down the middle, rather like when two springs become intertwined. Those loop backs may shift off-centre.
Hill Valley
Pairs of rows are looped around each other, the peaked rows forming “hills” and the dipped rows forming “valleys”.
Knotted
Adding a half knot at each crossover increases friction and holds the lacing much firmer, such as when firmly tightening skates.
Twistie
Similar to “Loop Back Lacing” with full twists instead of half twists, forming vertical half knots similar to the horizontal ones in “Knotted Lacing”.
Roman
Verticals hidden on the inside plus “X”s and “I”s on the outside, which looks like Roman numerals and suits both casual and dress shoes.
C.I.A.
Taught to C.I.A. officers during the Cold War, one or more “signal” crossovers is placed between straight segments for covert signalling. (From: Robert Wallace)
Hexagram
Forms a decorative “hexagram”, or six-pointed star, which has been used by many cultures and religions, most notably as the “Star of David”.
Pentagram
Forms a decorative “pentagram”, or five-pointed star, which appears everywhere from Converse sneakers to the flags of various countries.
Asterisk
Lacing sets of three eyelet pairs with a crossover plus a straight section results in a decorative series of asterisk (*) symbols.
Starburst
All of the visible shoelace segments cross diagonally at the middle of the shoe, forming a massive “starburst”.
Supernova
The laces cross diagonally over two focal points, forming a “black hole” in between. Needs maximum shoelace length and thus “shortens” ends.
Zig Zag
The laces alternate between inner verticals and outer diagonals that wrap around the opposite verticals, forming a twin-rail zig-zag path.
Progressive
Crossovers running at progressively steeper angles towards the toes. Feels progressively tighter towards the ankles, plus it looks decorative.
Perspective
Vertical segments on the inside plus diagonal segments of varying slopes overlapping on the outside form a sideways perspective grid.
Escher
Decorative lacing whose outline resembles fish swimming alternately left and right, like those from Dutch artist M.C. Escher.
Cascade
A decorative lacing with each row looped under the previous row, forming a diagonal series of loops that appears to “cascade” down the shoe. (From: Tim Talley)
Cyclone Fence
Alternately looping under the left and right of previous rows forms a decorative lacing that resembles a section of cyclone fencing (or “chain-link” fencing).
Woven
An “extreme lacing” for those who want what others wouldn't attempt. The laces weave up and down between rows, creating an intricate mesh.
Footbag
Footbag players use this lacing to open up the front of their shoes, making it easier to catch or otherwise control the footbag (or “Hacky Sack”).
NASA Space Boot
Used on astronaut's space boots during the early space program. A doubled-up shoelace snakes up the shoe, passing both ways through each eyelet to lock tightly.
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